Position: 18deg 39min South, 173deg 58min West � Neiafu in Vava�u
What a good day � We got up early and dressed in our Sunday best (as best as we can do when on a boat i.e boys in white shirts & ties with shorts, skirts & tops for girls, and jandals). We walked a good few kms to the LDS Saineha Chapel just passed the LDS Saineha school. (we subsequently found that we could have attended one that was much closer). The chapel was small and less than half full, but their singing was amazing. One of the women, Denise, who was sitting behind us, kindly translated the talks for us. The final speaker, Bro Hiliau Kaufusi, kept giving his scriptural quotes in both English and Tongan, which was fantastic as we were able to keep up with the gist of the talk. He turned out to be the seminary teacher and the Adult Sunday School teacher. The children went off to their primary classes (with Mum) and the teenagers to their youth classes. They were all made to feel very welcome, and made new friends. After church Hiliau said that he was off to attend a �feast to celebrate the return of his good friend�s missionary son�, and he said that we were to attend with him. So off we went � firstly to his home and then in his van Tongan style i.e. all the kids (his and ours) in the back. Back door open and side door open (effective air-conditioning). We traversed the main island to the other side (near the West coast) to a village where the road ends: Tuanuku. Hiliau and I sat up front and he told us about his pigs, his karva crops, his money lending business, and local politics etc. He pointed out various plants and crops on the way
We were then shown inside a humble home: where the front room was furnished with a long tables and benches. We were introduced to the family and the returned missionary, Elder Moala. He was a good looking Tongan man with bright blue eyes and a lovely American accent. He had spent his mission in California and, having been born in America, was intending to return and go to university and study dentistry. We had a great time having him recount some of his experiences � especially the opportunity he had of reactivating his sister and baptizing her non-member husband, and attending the temple with both of them. The spread on the table was something to behold: Sucking pig, chicken, fish, various shell fish, yams, taro, kumara, potato salad, crab and mussel surimi, coleslaw, watermelon and much more � what a presentation and knowing how much food costs in this part of the world I can�t begin to imagine how much this cost. We felt like the consummate gatecrashers, and felt awful that we didn�t have anything to contribute, but we were made to feel very welcome and given seats of honour at the table. After we had eaten, our host, Elder Moala�s father, said we should accompany them to their ward ward conference at the Longomapu Chapel. This time we attended the last part of Sunday School and then afternoon Sacrament. It was all in Tongan but Hiliau sat next to me and translated. The chapel was full and again, the singing was incredible. The stake president acknowledged the Palangi�s in his talk. Afterwards we were invited to attend the Bishop�s house where yet another Tongan Feast was laid on. This house was more humble than the first and the beautiful feast that was prepared was much bigger � 3 little pigs this time plus all the above, we sat on mats on the floor. Again we were guests of honour, and our presence welcomed. The family did not participate, but waited behind in the other room in the house. There were other dignitaries there including Bro Spencer from the stake presidency, and others I gathered, were village elders. Speeches were made by most of the men, along with the Bishop�s wife and another lady. I made one too acknowledging our gracious host and the connection we feel as being part of a church family. We felt humbled by Bishop�s comments when he said he was sorry if there wasn�t enough food for us, or if we would still be hungry, meanwhile we�d never seen so much food on a table. Hiliau explained that we had to go now as it was getting late and the family needed to eat. That was the other thing that felt strange, that we would go in, sit down and eat, and then get up and leave without clearing the table, helping wash up or anything. However, the family would not eat till we had gone, so our leaving made room for the rest of the family at the table. There was still a huge amount of food left, we had hardly made a dent in the meal. I understood that the leftovers would be shared amongst family, friends, and neighbors alike. We were offered to take what ever we wanted (which we politely declined). This is a part of the culture that we don�t fully understand. The meal would have cost more than a few weeks wages. The home was lovingly cared for, but humble, and I�m sure the money could have been better spent. Our host was delighted with our presence and it appeared to be a great honor for him and he thanked us profusely for attending and making it special for them. (not that we did not have a fantastic time � because we did). This is definitely a very cultural thing. The real guests of honour were only about 5 and the meal would have sufficed for over 50. So there was no need to lavishly supply the honoured guests, except for special cultural reasons which I don�t fully understand. We were very humbled by the sacrifices these lovely people had made, and all the children commented on it when we got home. We so wished we could do something for each of them. They�ve certainly taught us how to share more.
On the way home we stopped to feed the pigs on one of Hiliau�s little plots. They appear to forage during the day and are fed with two coconuts each twice a day � It was explained to me that it was one of the easiest ways of farming that one could engage in. We didn�t offer to slice the tops off the coconuts with the machetes as we couldn�t wield the machete as efficiently without losing our fingers! Tom enjoyed throwing the halved coconuts to the pigs though.
We finally arrived home after dark, tired, having made new friends, good Sabbath lessons and having experienced a special part of Tongan culture we would not normally have been privvy to.
Skipper
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