Day 30

Saturday 30th May 2009 21:00

Position: 18deg 39min South, 173deg 58min West � Neiafu in Vava�u

We had a good night sleep at our last anchorage. After our radio sked, one more checkup on our patient and off to explore Kenutu (anchorage #30). They started up their water maker in the early hours of the morning and gave us 100 litres of delicious water as a thank you. We were very grateful, as we�re not enjoying drinking our boat water. The trip to Kenutu was more tricky than we had thought, the book refers to clear beacons � which don�t exist (in defence of the locals, there are small buoys in the correct place which are not very visible) The chart does not correspond with the GPS � so with Matt up the mast, we wound our way between the reefs, had a few scares in the shallow waters along the way, and were rewarded with a very peaceful anchorage � the most easterly on Vava�u � surprisingly the water visibility was not good. We watched as some local fishermen spread their nets along the shoreline and chased the fish into the net by beating the water with a long stick. It was a short walk across the island with a view over cliffs towards the east with waves crashing into the cliffs below.

One the way to Kenutu our dinghy, we were towing, came loose and, with the sharp eyes of Rebekah, we were alerted and turned back to fetch it � phew! We�d have been lost without our dinghy! She was rewarded with her own bottle of ginger beer and a couple of fruit burst lollies � as we�re all on boat rations and all cooldrink gets shared, she felt very special!

In order to make church tomorrow we have motored all the way around back to Neiafu and picked up one of the moorings. Dinner tonight was mum�s homemade butter chicken � Yum!

Skipper and Crew

Day 29

Friday 29th May 2009 19:00
Position: 18deg 42min South, 174deg 00min West � anchored off the South Western end of Pangaimotu Island (anchorage #10) � its very protected and very still.

Stowaway Sarah spent another night on board and after a radio sked with Sunstone who are now in Vanuatu, we went with Tusitala to Euakafa Island. Here we anchored on the northern side of the island. The island is flat topped 270feet high. We sent family ashore to do battle with the mosquitoes and do some exploring. Then Matt, Sarah, Mike and Daniel (from Tusitala) took the dinghies round to the reef on the Southern aspect. We took our scuba gear and dived the drop off which was very pretty � down to about 25 meters and then made our way East for about half and hour then came back along the face of the drop off at a depth between 5 to 10meters. We spent a good hour below and had a very good dive. Tusitala were kind enough to fill our bottles for us afterwards (a dive compressor is on my list of goodies along with water maker and wind charger)

On our return we were surprised to see 2 cats moored close to us. The husband of one the couples on one of the cats greeted us in his dinghy as we rounded the island on our return. The long and the short was that his wife had trapped her little finger in the hinge of one of the lockers and was sporting a not so good looking crush of her little finger. The wound extended from her nail bed down to bone and extending down to the palmer side with exposed tendon. Fortunately the tendon and neurovascular bundle was intact. He had done an excellent primary job of cleaning, dressing, and stemming the blood flow. We cleaned her hand and gave her a digital block. They had a good first aid kit on board including suture equipment. I cleaned the wound and with the aid of his reading glasses, sutured the wound with 4.0 dermalon. She needed 8 stitches to oppose the ragged edges of the stellate wound, a stiff drink and a lie down. It was a nasty crush injury and we now have her on antibiotics, paracetamol and some NSAID�s � will keep and eye on that finger for the next few days to ensure all is well. Good Job I did some hand surgery when I was a little boy � who would have thought I would have needed it out here.

Managed a good walk to the top of Euakafa Island, There was a reasonable path under a jungle type canopy with hundreds of palm trees. Near the top is the remains of a tomb lined with great big slabs of volcanic rock (I presume) � there is a story involving the burial of a princess in the tomb � but it is empty today. The view from the top was breath taking as one looked north back towards the main island.

The kids made our patient a chocolate cake and a card and we have anchored in the same place for the night � the ultimate house call.

Mom is making a delicious fish dinner thanks to the kind contribution of fish from Liberation.

Skipper

Day 27

Wednesday 27th May 2009 19:00

Position: 18deg 43min South, 174deg 02min West � anchored between Nuku and Kapa Islands

We woke this morning to a mirror sea. Spent the morning exploring Nuku Island and snorkeling and met up with its new residents from Australia � Tristan�s (mother) an artist and Dave is working for one of the local adventure companies and also charters their 40ft cat. They have two young children � good playmates for Rebekah � Rebekah spent the day playing with them.

�Tusitala� arrived with (Mike the skipper and Daniel (Sarah�s Dad and by the way he�s an ENT surgeon who was at Auckland but now doing a fellowship in Sydney, and Sarah�s step mum Vivian and 18month old Ciara) and had lunch with us. Then Rick and Robyn from Endangered Species arrived and, Joy and I went with them in their tender to show them Mariners cave. Well Joy through caution to the wind and decided to overcome her fear and did the scary dive into Mariners Cave � we�re very proud of our Mum! Stowaway Sarah decided to miss a delicious meal of pork chops on her vessel to stay for what really is a very boring dinner with us to watch a movie with the kids on the laptop.

The only downside to this adventure for the teenagers on board is the lack of friends and other teenagers on the other cruising vessels � so when they find one, they stick like glue.

The wind has picked up to 10 to 15 kts Southerly and has brought cooler temperatures � thank goodness because Dad resembles an iced lolly that�s been left of the fridge to melt.

Skipper

Day 27

Wednesday 27th May 2009 19:00

Position: 18deg 43min South, 174deg 02min West � anchored between Nuku and Kapa Islands (for those in the know, this is near anchorage #8) There is virtually no wind and it�s very hot: 29 degrees in the boat, water temp 26.2.(sorry to do this to you guys) We are certainly not looking forward to sailing back to the cold at the end of June

We left Neiafu after noon with young Sarah (16) from �Tusitala� a 38 foot sloop from Whangaparoa.We explored Mariners Cave (18deg 41.432 South, 174deg 04.523 West). Entry into the cave requires a short dive about a 1- 2.5 metres in depth (depending on the tide) and about 4 metres across. An act of faith because you need to swim beyond your point of no return. Once inside you are in this cavern that is about 50m in diameter and completely sealed. The only light in the cave comes through the sea and gives the cave an eerie turquoise light. Once you dark adapt you have a very clear view and have no need of a torch. The other very interesting thing is that cave appears to breathe. The tidal surge not only causes you to experience pressure change on your ear drums but also causes the air to alternately fog (as the pressure drops the water vapour instantly precipitates) and clear, in time with the surge. The fogging is so dense that it prevents you seeing across the cave and makes everything go fuzzy. Dad, Matt, Emma, Thomas, Abigail and stowaway Sarah all managed the swim in and out. Dad did numerous trips as he escorted them in. Mom and Rebekah remained on the vessel to hover as there is no place to anchor the shear cliff goes down nearly 100m and so we could motor a few metres off the face.

We paid another visit to Swallows Cave (18deg 40.943min South, 174deg 02.880min West) and took photos of our boat from the inside of the cave.

For dinner we have had spaghetti bolognaise and shared 2 large papaya. It�s another hot evening in paradise.

Skipper

Day 26

Tuesday 26th May 2009 21:00

Position: 18deg 39min South, 173deg 58min West � Neiafu in Vava�u

Another good day exploring in Neiafu. We have sorted our visa extensions, been to the market and stocked up on fresh provisions, a much better selection than in Nuku�alofa, although not much green stuff. We collected a tray of eggs, three small $2 watermelons, onions, cucumbers & ripe bananas (our others are hanging above the cockpit and are still green! Maybe this is why we haven�t caught much fish with all these bananas hanging everywhere!). Worked on the chart plotter on the LDS missionary transport vessel. And entertained Elder and Sister Wood onboard. The crew made their own dinner, rented a DVD to watch on the laptop and sent the skipper and Joy out. We had a thoroughly enjoyable evening at Vava�u yacht club with some of the other boats. I had a simple hamburger and Joy, fish and chips � both meals were delicious and our first meal out in absolute ages.

Skipper

Day 25

Monday 25th May 2009 19:00

Position: 18deg 39min South, 173deg 58min West � Neiafu in Vava�u

We were woken up about 5am � total darkness with a gale and a torrential downpour and high winds that clocked around from the East then north then to the North West � Port Maurelle is very exposed to the North West. By the way Port Maurelle is just a little anchorage with a coral reef at the head and a little white sand beach. We had anchored in 23m of water so we did not have much scope. Up we got ready to take action I noticed that the instruments went on, on all vessels in the anchorage, meaning we were not the only ones having doubt about our anchoring. � we heard from some of the other vessels that wind speeds up to 50kts were recorded. I don�t think we had more than 30 in our anchorage. The wind eventually clocked all the way around and back to the south east. After breakfast we made our way to Neiafu. We have picked up one of the Baluga dive company mooring bouys, cleared customs and started exploring. There are lots of quaint little restaurants and cafes. There is no doubt that this is a very beautiful part of the world. There is lots to explore and do and we could certainly spend a lot of time here. We have enjoyed evening drinks at the Mermaide caf� (Neiafu Yacht Club) with the crews of Liberation, Endangered Species and GoToGo. We have cooked some more of the results of Matt�s fishing � a very good dinner indeed. Our chart plotter is way off in these waters � will look to doing something about the offset.

Skipper

Day 24

Sunday 24th May 2009 19:00

Position: 18deg 42min South, 174deg 02min West � Port Maurelle in Vava�u

We had a great sail up � the wind was pretty much easterly when we left making us fear that the northerly change predicted would head us and make it a little difficult. But we were blessed with a moderate South Easterly that gave us legs. So good in fact that we reefed and eventually had to hove too just off Vava�u in order to make our entry in day light. The c-map is not accurate here and we have noticed a good 0.1nm discrepancy � no good for narrow passes. Bacon and eggs for breakfast and quick nap, swim, chat to some 0f thew vessels me know (4 in this anchorage). We couldn�t resist as we came in getting the dingy off and letting the kids explore swallows cave on the way in � must spend more time doing this. We�ve been ashore and visited the local village and wharf on the other side of the island. Vava�u is truly beautiful � a bit like Marlborough Sounds with tropical beaches and water at 25degrees C. Tomorrow we will clear customs in Nelafu and take on some water and explore a little.

Skipper

Day 23

Saturday 23nd May 2009 19:00

Position: 19deg 26min South, 174ded 18min West � on our way to Vava�u

Tom noticed a man in a red t-shirt on the shore, waving. The upshot was that we (plus others from the other vessels) accompanied him � tour of the village, fresh drinking coconut straight from the tree (now this was truly nice and I enjoyed it immensely) We visited his home and was a little sad to see a dog that had been recently been dispatched being prepared in their cookhouse. We collected Yam, Papaya, bananas, lemons � did some negotiating and made our way back to the shore � the whole exercise having taken a few hours. Matt in the meantime had caught another fish with Abby from Kairos. Matt fried his half of the fish and shared it with us for lunch. We said our goodbyes to the vessels in the anchorage and left at about 3pm. The intent was to catch the last of the South Easterly before the offending low from Fiji brought northerlies and finally westerlies to the area. So far we�ve been blessed with good moderate winds from the South East and minimal swell. The crew are tired having had a full couple of days.

Skipper

Day 22

Friday 22nd May 2009 19:00

Position: 19deg 56 min South, 174deg 43min West �Ha�afeva Island

Tom�s Birthday!

We woke to find the vessel filled with Balloons (done by our good Abby of course) Made pan cakes, Went ashore for a quick walk and to deal to Matt�s fish. Mum made chapattis and special butter chicken for Tom�s Birthday lunch. Emma made a special chocolate cake. Later that afternoon Kairos arrived and we changed plans � the kids went over for dinner and a movie and stayed over and we had a great evening telling stories on Northern Winds ( another 60plus foot beauty)

Skipper

day 21

Thursday 21st May 2009 19:00

Position: 19deg 56 min South, 174deg 43min West �Ha�afeva Island

We said our final good byes to Sis Manu Fanoa and family, Josephine & Leisi and co � who gave us some warm corn cobs and a necklace for each of the girls. They have been so generous and kind to us. We cleared customs, and got some drinking water from the Tongan navy � we are so grateful! (We had filled up with water from Nuku�alofa but it tastes awful and, although it hasn�t made us sick, its just not nice to drink � despite adding chlorine and being passed though our carbon filters � we have to mix it with Raro juice to disguise the taste and it�s still not great) so the Navy�s rainwater from their roof, is just so good by comparison! A pleasant 4 hour sail has found us at this very little island � Ha�afeva. We are anchored off with 2 others � Liberation and Avante Garde. We�ve been ashore and explored. We have sorted the chart plotter on one of the church vessels, met more friendly members � played games with the local kids, watched the bats flying at dusk in the trees, and checked out the pig sitting in a �crate� (made of sticks & shaded in coconut leaves) on the wharf waiting for the evening ferry to Nuku�alofa. We swam and washed. Mom and Dad spent the early evening chatting with Colin & Marion aboard Avante Garde (a beautiful Dickson 60ft sloop), along with Bill & Hazel from Liberation, and came back to find a delicious dinner made by the crew � with the cockpit and saloon all neat and tidy, they even did all the washing up, Mom wasn�t allowed to do anything � I like this!

The anchorage has a bit of a roll. But we are well anchored in moderate South Easterly winds in the lee of the island, and we are all exhausted after another full day. Matthew and Emma have baked a cake and are icing it (500g Chelsea icing sugar cost us the equivalent of NZ$5.50 at the local asian run dairy � quite well provisioned for such a small community!) we are celebrating Tom�s last day of being 12. It should have been for tomorrow but me thinks they will eat it tonight. Interestingly they�ve grated fresh coconut and added it to the cake � it tastes fantastic.

Oh I nearly forgot � Matt caught 2 tuna � I think that�s what they are � they�re in the freezer and will become dinner in due course.

We shall explore the reef tomorrow and do some more fishing

Skipper

day 20

Wednesday 20th May 2009 19:00

Position: 19deg 48min South, 174deg 21min West � Lefuka Island � Pangai Village

We�ve had a good day � we decided to walk the 15km to the top of the island � fortunately when we had done an hour we were given a lift by Janie (from the Happy Hapai divers). To our amusement we drove right over the airport runway (admittedly through control booms) and then over a causeway to Foa Island. At the very end of the island is �Sandy beach� and also Matafonua Lodge. We had a good chat to Sal who owned the resort. � nearly $120 US a night. We misjudged the availability of small shops that you find in the villages � so we had some fun on the beach and a good swim and shared a pizza and a bowl of chips and some water and started the long trek back. After walking for over an hour through little villages ( we bought some snacks on route) in quite stifling heat we caught a local bus. The bus was an education � it made the old bangers on 90mile beach look like Cadillacs. All the seats were broken and springs exposed. One could observe the road through the rust holes in the floor. The bus had no door and a crazed windscreen, no fuel tank just a big plastic can next to the drivers seat with diesel pipes going into it. It cost us dollar each and we were very grateful. On our arrival at the harbour, some locals that have befriended us. (They are also members of our church), presented us with a whole bunch of bananas and a drinking coconut each.

skipper

Day 18

Monday 18th May 2009 19:00

Position: 19deg 51min South, 174deg 25min West � Uoleva Island

Have found reasonable shelter in an anchorage off Uoleva island.- anchored in 9meters � the barometer is falling a little and a front is passing over � a roll has started in the anchorage (makes you feel like you are still at sea)� we expect this low some time tomorrow � we are only a few hours motoring from Lifuka and hope to find shelter there as the low may well bring some westerly winds � there is virtually no shelter in the Hapai group from winds from the west.

The crew have not enjoyed the hard sailing into the north easter and have been a little sea sick winds have varied from 15 to 25 kts � the boat did well averaging a good 6 kts. We also passed very close to the 2 extinct volcanoes of Tofua and Kao. The later looks like Rangitoto but is much taller at over 1000meters. � it was covered in a large lenticular cloud when we passed this morning. � we feel much better now having had a swim, wash and dinner.

We are now finding it easier keeping skeds on 13101khz with Des at 0800 (NZST)

Skipper

Day 17

Sunday 17th May 2009 19:00

Position: 20deg 52min South, 175deg 09min West � heading 015degrees true � heading for the Hapai group.

The winds are north easterly 15 to 20 making the going a little rough we have 2 slabs out of the main and just the storm jib up. Crew sea sick and not too happy. We have had another good day at Pangaimatu and the kids have met up with another teenager � Sarah. The plan is to make Lifuka before the little low from Fiji hits us.

skipper

Photos

Hey everyone, the skipper sent through these photos for the blog. I've put them up in date order :)

Day 16

Saturday 16h May 2009 19:00

Position: 21deg 05min South, 175deg 09min West � anchored off Fafa Island

The guide book says that the resort on Fafa is the best island resort in Tangatapu group, and I concur � a bit of a pain to approach in a yacht because its surrounded by a large reef. We have anchored on the south side in about 9m of water about 50 meters from the reef. Matt and I snorkeled over the anchor to check � looked well set. This feels like quite an exposed anchorage.

The island resort is immaculate and just out of the picture books. They have guest houses (called fales) each with their own peace of beach and little veranda. They have high ceilings with clinker wooden roofs and traditional walls for the buildings � The bit I liked most was the bathroom which sported a reasonably large area half covered - the shower was actually outside and merely protected by a traditional coconut palm woven courtyard wall.

We met up the plastic surgery team (Zak, Martin and Graham and their 2 OR scrub nurses) that were taking a break from their week at Viola hospital. This was just fantastic � we had a great morning as their guests and returned to Carenza for lunch and a nap at about 2 o�clock. Zak and Graham snorkeled over to the yacht for a visit and eventually we snorkeled back with them and ended the day enjoying some cocktails � time went very rapidly and we ended up having to negotiate the reef in the dingy in the dark (fortunately I had left the anchor light on so we could find the yacht� the overcast conditions made it all very dark)

Abby found a nice dry coconut which we pealed off the husk and cracked it open and removed the hard coconut (shown to us by Graham) which is actually really nice. Actually the place is full of coconuts but they by rights belong to the owner of the island.

Another day in paradise. Unfortunately you really need money to enjoy paradise and we are on a tight budget. We would have loved to have had a meal but that would have represented a weeks provisions.

We are still watching the weather and unsure about whether to leave on Sunday or not. There is definitely a low developing over Fiji that threatens to disturb the settled south Easters with a bit of a blow from the west in the next few days � not good for exploring the Hapai group.

We have found a nice dry empty coconut � and brought it back to the yacht and have named him �Wilson�

We are far enough north now for the skeds on 4429khz to not be so good anymore so we had a sked with Des on 13101kHz which was infinitely better.

Its so warm that we are having to run the freezer for 2 to 3 hours a day to keep it frozen (between -5 to -12)

Skipper

Day 15

Friday 15th May 2009 19:00

Position: 21deg 07 min South, 175deg 09min West � anchored in 20m off Pangaimotu Island

We spent the day on Pangaimotu Island � small enough to walk around in 20mins at a leisurely pace. There is an island resort and most of the Island Cruising Association yachts were there. This is where their Tongan rally meets. Yes we have met up with other children. Young Abigail is Matthew�s age and is from Kairos (a 40 odd foot island packet) very nice yacht and nicely kitted out. Abby is sailing with her mom and dad, Clint and Janet. They have 5 children and have been cruising for many years. The older children are either on other vessels or back in the USA. There is also a big cat from Whangarei called reflection with a family with 2 little girls with 9 year old twins. As much as we have been enjoying the company on the island we are not part of the ICA and we have felt a little isolated. Fare enough this is business for them but �.. Our kids have had a great time though interacting with the other children. We are itching to get going up to the Hapai group. We hear that there is a low coming up in the next few days which might make the Hapai group difficult for us. We also want to keep in touch with Kairos as we are enjoying their company. We shall download some weather files and check the long range forecasts � we are mindful that we have cleared the Tongatapu group and our next port of call is Lifuka in the Hapai group.

skipper

day 14

Thurs 14th May 2009 19:00

Position: 21deg 07 min South, 175deg 09min West � anchored in 20m off Pangaimotu Island.

I see I made an error in the previous date � proof that island time is different.

Well the morning was spent getting water � we take all this for granted but where people don�t have enough this is a real issue. We were charged $23.00 but we are very glad to have our tanks full again. It appears that our port side tank which I thought was full was only a third full � so some water must have leaked into the starboard tank or is was not a full as we thought when we left home � a mystery that I am yet to solve. We filled our fuel containers (diesel about 2 dollars a liter and petrol a little more, gas cost us $15 for 3.5kg and gas bottle, and did some provisioning. � Food is double the price in NZ and is no where near the quality. Fish is surprisingly expensive. I tried very hard to find an internet caf� near the wharf and eventually found one that would accept my usb stick and the speed made dial up look fast � took 30mins to upload a few photos that were only about 30k � we cleared Nuku�alofa as well as we intend to visit some of the outer islands and then move onto the Hapai group. I can see the value of been part of the ICA cruising fleet as all this officialdom is kind of taken care for you. � clearing out involved lots of walking between various offices and buildings and much stamping and signing and of cause paying. This involved the whole day. We left late in the afternoon to moor just off Pangaimotu. Had a much needed swim and wash and am looking forward to bed. I am starting to get a handle on the pace of life of the Tongan people, I just have to learn to slow down. I am amaised by the number of cars that are here and the amount of driving everyone does around the island. One would imagine that bicycles would suffice for a lot of what people do. The housing is interesting too. Most people live in very humble abodes but every now and then you come across a house that would cost at least $ 500 k to a million � these are nationals that are overseas and have build homes back home either for their own families to live in or in most cases for themselves. There are little stalls everywhere where people sell a few sweet potatoes or a few hands of bananas. The fish market is also interesting lots of people selling bags of fish � priced at about $20 - $50.00 � or groups of octopuses or sea eggs or other shell fish for similar price � no refrigeration and all a bit smelly � still haven�t lost my western desire to see food refrigerated especially fish. I am alarmed at the price of food and especially fish. All the good fish like Tuna and crayfish is exported. Not too sure what you do to survive if you are poor in Tonga � you can subsistence farm and grow your own chickens and pigs but everything else is very expensive.

Skipper.

Day 13

Wed 13th May 2009 19:00

Position: 21deg 08min South, 175deg 10min West � anchored stern too in the small craft harbour in Nuku�alofa.

I spent an hour at Viola Hospital � met the CEO � a very pleasant well spoken man. He has been in contact with Don Mackie at Counties about anaesthetic and other medical support. He is new to the position and still finding his feet in some regards. I went to the operating rooms and paid a visit. They had 3 theatres running at the time. A plastic surgery team from Middlemore (New Zealand) were there and were doing a cleft palate in one theatre and another child in the other. There was a caesarian section in progress in the third theatre. The anaesthetic equipment is basic but adequate � unfortunately they have pulse oximeters but no agent analysis � I did notice that the plastic team had brought there own anaesthetist from Starship Children�s Hospital and they brought their own anaesthetic Monitor. Overall the whole impression was the same as one would find in a little hospital in peripheral Africa � made me feel quite homesick in fact. I think at there is an opportunity for us to do more in terms of establishing some kind of professional relationship between ourselves at Auckland Hospital and Viola Hospital.

Vatuni then took all of us for a tour around the island (in our hurry we left the camera behind) Our highlights included numerous villages � all neat and tidy. Lds chapels (neat and tidy and good looking I may say) in every village. We went to the Temple which is very pretty and saw the Liahona High School. We saw the �Blow holes� � at low tide the huge Southerly Swell bashes against the reef and exits as jets of water and mist from holes in the reef � this happens for a few kilometers along the coast and is very spectacular. We saw Ha�amonga Trilithon - A large Stone Henge type gate way made from coral stone not from Tongatapu, We�ve seen their flying foxes � large fruit bats that tend to sleep in the iron wood trees. We looked at Captain Cooks first landing place and saw and spoke to one of the Tongan Ladies making Tapa ( cloth made from beating the bark of a mulberry tree shoots. � a laborious process that requires hours and hours of beating of the stuff) � this cloth is not only expensive but used in all sorts of ceremonies: births, deaths, burials, marriages etc. The Tongan people are very friendly and we have been treated well were ever we have been so far.

Water is a real issue for us. There are no taps or sources of water in the small craft harbour here. Our only options are to buy water from the ministry of works that will bring a bunker up to the dock, or try and buy some form the fishing fleet base. � we hope to do that tomorrow. Provision the vessel and leave Tongatapu for one of the other islands this afternoon.

skipper

Day 12 - Arrived in Tonga

Tuesday 12th May 2009 19:00

Position: 21deg 08min South, 175deg 10min West � anchored stern too in the small craft harbour in Nuku�alofa.
Well this is the longest that we have motored for in one continuous run � funny thing in total we have used more diesel than water on this trip � we are still on our first tank � 200Liters. To our delight a strong southerly wind sprung up during the night and we were able to increase our boat speed to nearly 8kts and caught up a lot of time. We decided in the face of the stiff southerly wind to make our entry on the west coast, through the Egeria channel. Our original plan was to have made the Piha channel on the east coast that is exposed to the prevailing South Easterly swell. A yacht Wandering Star I got stuck on the reef this afternoon. We were not in a position to help but one of the Super Cats (a 60 foot monster) has a lovely tender like a small tug and went to her aid � we went out to help her come into mooring.

Customs was interesting. We called the harbour master as instructed over a period of 2 hours but there was no answer � you are supposed to go the commercial harbour, but we went strait to the small craft harbour and anchored in the middle and reversed to the breakwater and tied stern too a bollard. � still have to use the dingy though.

I walked to the customs office and handed in our departure documentation that I received from NZ customs. They made some notes and informed me that the immigration and health departments were still on Pangamotu island clearing in the large number of yachts from the Island Cruising Association. We were to remain on the vessel with our quarantine flag raised. Well to our delight one and half hours later 4 inspectors arrived and we filled in lots of arrival forms and they departed with money ($25 for the immigration and $100 for the health clearance (actually they said it was $200 but Joy challenged them on that and they corrected the figure)). A contact we had from church � Vatuni � has delighted us by bringing the most enormous water melon we have ever seen and then took us for a ride around town and showed us the main street, where to get fuel, food etc. We bought our first coconuts ever and bananas and some fresh bread. Vatuni has also organized for me to meet the CEO of the local hospital tomorrow. Its good to have dry land under foot. We have looked back on the trip to realize that this has indeed been a very good trip and we can honestly say we have enjoyed it so far.

Skipper.

Day 11

Monday 11th May 2009 17:00

Position: 22deg 20min South, 176deg 49min West � 120 miles off Tongatapu.

The little bit of wind we have (about 5 kts ) has turned to the north east and is heading us. We have been under motor since 7 this morning. We were doing better than 5 kts but no more � so the idea of making land fall by tomorrow evening is starting to wane. We have been able to observe that stationary front over Tonga for the last few days and we have just started to enter its area. The humidity is suddenly up and there are little drops of rain. There is nothing really to be newsy about except we are all very excited about arriving in Tonga � enough already.

Skipper.

Day 10

Sunday 10th May 2009 17:00

Position: 23deg 36min South, 178deg 39min West � back at sea

Slight variation in plans � joined Black Adder and another yacht Pacific Rose and dived and snorkeled the wreck on the South Eastern part of the inner reef, in reasonably shallow water. Later in the afternoon we joined Black Adder again on the outside of the reef � this time the normally inaccessible outer South Eastern Corner � we snorkeled for a good 40mins over the most amazing coral and saw all kinds of reef fish, two sharks, and a turtle. We then left the reef and have continued to sail to Tonga in very little winds. We have sufficient diesel on board to motor/motor sail to Tonga. We�re all tired so these watches are going to be very tuff. We are now hoping to reach Tonga on Wednesday morning all things being equal. We are delighted with our experience on both South and North Minerva Reefs and can only recommend to anyone who has the opportunity to go. Little Rebekah has managed to put her mask and snorkel on and has enjoyed seeing the fish.

Skipper

Day 9

Saturday 9th May 2009 17:00

Position: 23deg 37min South, 178deg 55min West � Minerva North

A westerly wind sprung up and gave us a bit of a chop in South Minerva with swell entering the reefs entrance as well. We made our way to North Minerva � a great sail with 15kt westerly winds and we kept up a reasonable 7.5knots and arrived 2 and half hour later � really spoilt � now we�ve seen both � just fantastic. Today our new friends on �Black Adder� (crewed and skippered by the way by a bunch of guys Air New Zealand pilots and engineers � we have really enjoyed their company) � lent Matt and I some dive bottles and Matt and I did our first dive in 17meters � Matt�s over the moon. A good dinner and off to bed I am afraid � really another action packed day. Our intention is to leave for Tonga tomorrow. Unfortunately Black Adder is off to Fiji but we are now armed with some good dive spots and lots of good advice. They are coming home at the same timewe are so we will keep in touch.

How nice it is to be having a full nights sleep because we are at anchor even though we are over 500km from the nearest bit of land.

Skipper

Day 8

Friday 8th May 2009 17:00

Position: 23deg 56min South, 179deg 06min West � Minerva South

We could see the breaking surf on South Minerva by 8 am and as we got closer could hear the roar of the surf like an express train. It took us a full two hours to arrive, negotiate the coral heads (with Matthew up the mast pointing out the obstacles) and find a suitable anchorage � in 12m on a clear sandy bottom. The visibility is just phenomenal. We�ve been swimming, snorkeling and walked on the reef. Managed an afternoon nap and planning to spend the night at anchor. Mom�s cooking a nice curry. From a fish viewing perspective � a dive around any coral head reveals a plethora of brightly coloured fish, giving the illusion of diving in a tropical fish tank. There were three vessels here when we arrived and 2 Tongan fishing vessels (plundering the reef) another 6 have since arrived � mostly big cats around the 50 to 60 foot mark and mainly American.

It�s now high tide and some of the 3m swell is breaking over the reef and a small swell is now apparent in the anchorage. The reef area is enormous all very confusing (all of 3nm across � we could accommodate all of the Westhaven yachts here and still have plenty of room)� how you ever negotiated this in the past without a chart, I just don�t know. This is quite surreal � in the middle of the ocean here we are anchored for the night.

Skipper

Day 7

Thursday 7th May 2009 17:00
Position: 24deg. 50min South , 179 deg 43min West (note we are now in the Western hemisphere. So the date should read Wednesday the 6th but we will leave it as it is, as Tongan time is NZ plus 1 hour)
Better day today � low wind speeds � have had the spinnaker up all day � have made 80Nm today (not our expected 120) but the winds have been no more than 5 kts. Presently doing 2 -3kts with winds about 4-5kts from the South West. We have decided to make South Minerva by late morning and attempt the entry � although the prevailing winds and swell are not ideal � from the south west the conditions are very settled � there is a front approaching from behind with a promise of wind and rain and no doubt a wind change. Still looks a while off. � This same front gave the yachts behind us wind speeds of 30 kts. We have read books, watched movies on the ipod etc. Had a great radio sked with our friends Tom and Vicky on SunStone � they had invited Josh for dinner and we all had a good chat � hogged the channel a bit I am afraid but very nice to do. Very excited, if not nervous about South Minerva (just 60 nm away)

Skipper

Day 6

Wednesday the 6th May 09 19H00,
Position:26degrees 04min South and 179degrees 35mins east
A day essentially with out wind. We know that the yachts behind us have winds up to 30 knots. There's a front behind us & we can see the cloud and there's a stationary one ahead  & more cloud  & we have a soft breeze from the south east alone with a big swell from the winds behind. We have only managed to do 90 nautical miles today, really pathetic and that includes some motoring when charging batteries.

We hoved too for about an hour to have a swim & the water is beautifully clear and warm 24 degrees now. I am however a little frustrated at not moving and a little worried about going to Minerva reef . I am afraid that the swell might prevent entry because at present it is not from the expected South East. We have decided to just continue and have a look. Presently boat speed is a paltry 2kts.

Skipper

Day Five

Tuesday 5th May 09 1800hrs
Position: 27 degrees 38min South, 178 degrees 45min East

We found the wind at 2am in the morning � a mild Southwesterly about 12 to 15 knots. We currently have the jib poled out and am making 5 to 6knots. We are officially half way. We have celebrated with butter chicken and homemade rolls for dinner. The evenings are getting darker earlier as we are moving slowly east. Just can�t believe we are so far from any where. We had originally planned to be in the middle of the Tongan fleet but they are one and half days behind. No boats or aeroplanes seen in the past few days. Beautifully clear night skies when its not raining with such a clear view of the Milky Way. Shooting stars have been a treat too. We are enjoying the opportunity to chat on night watches. We are however missing the contact from family and friends. � we hope the blog is up and running because its something we cannot see. Joy enjoyed being on deck with her favorite music (Pavarotti) on her night watch and no one to complain. Being a good day some of the crew (skipper included) stood on the deck and had a good old wash � can�t believe how good that feels.

Are keeping contact with a yacht �Liberation� on her way up. One of my colleagues Lars is on board � all well on that front Felicity.

Missing Josh so much we made our first and very expensive satellite phone call � very good quality and surprisingly little delay. Won�t be doing that again though. Satellite mail is fantastic and we look forward to contact. (as long as there are no pics).

Lots to do especially for the skipper � between watches, logs, blogs, pulling down radio faxes, keeping skeds, listening to weather forecasts, continually assisting members of the crew with little crises day and night the inevitably occur.

Skipper

Day Four

Monday 4th May 1700hrs position 29degrees 24min south 178degrees 19min east currently under motor doing about 6 knots wind slight no more than 5 knots southerly

Well a good night sail with the wind southerly 15 to 20knots doing on average over 7knots, swell no more than 2 meters . The winds died down this morning and the sea a deep blue and became south westerly for a while and then south easterly. With great effort we put the spinnaker up (not because its was difficult but because every thing at sea is done with such effort even going to the toilet or writing in the log.) We've chased the wind with the spinnaker for last 8 hours and admittedly made a respectable 6knots on average but both Matt and I am exhausted and when the spinnaker finally hang limp on the deck and I could not coax any more life out of it we went the iron sail. We are quite mindful that we do not have enough fuel on board so am trying to keep motoring down to a minimum - 22 hours in total so far.

Mom has made spaghetti bolognaise ' for dinner ' great. As were in for a quite night we shall thin the shifts out to all get some good sleep. Still 3 days to Minerva. Sea temp already 21 with a promise of things to come. Missing Joshua heaps.

Skipper

Don't know where the days have gone. In between a blur of seasickness when the boat turned into a vomit comet, I lost a couple of days. Matt and I took our Pahia Bombs (seasick tablets) at lunchtime on day one, thinking that was way too early, as the going was so easy. However by the following morning, matt was complaining that they weren't working too well, and, a little later we were all competing with him for the side rail! Day two with confused lumpy seas made everyone seasick. We hardly ate anything and couldn't keep anything down, I only had two segments of mandarin all day - great for crash dieting! Unfortunately it also meant that the seasick tablets woudn't take hold either, so day two blurred into day three. Matt and Charles did a sterling job keeping us going thoughout the second night. We had anticipated sailing into a storm that was to "sling shot" us into the pacific and had reefed our main all ready. however, the storm never seemed to arrive and eventually, as everything was looking good, we shook out the reef and got back to some real sailing. Naturally, the storm then came up and we had to get back to being reefed and battling it! With just the storm jib up, the boys sailed four hour watches throughout the night. It was wet and cold, with poop waves coming into the cockpit and the wind gusting up to 50 knots. When they weren't on watch, they would just lie down and rest in the wet cockpit, so they could help each other out when needed. Very heavy going for both of them, but they did a great job. Mom on the other hand, was OK lying down but was sick every time she stood up. So, despite valiant efforts to get the boys something to snack on, or drink, felt guilty at not being capable of very much. The only thing I could do was to pray for the seas to calm and the winds to ease, which I did with all my might!! They eventually did and the next day was easier going. 

We felt deserving of the delicious chocolate cookies that Kendall made for us, as we tucked into them. I must admit, although the weather was awful, we all felt completely safe and not in any danger. When we are in the cockpit, we have our lifejackets on and are always clipped on, so we can't fall out if a freak wave comes over the side. Day three and calmer weather meant that we could keep our seasick tablets down and all return to being functional again, yay! It's amazing to think we're so far away from land. 

All around us is sea, we see the odd seabird from time to time, and Charles and Emma saw a big ship on the horizon last night but it didn't come our way. The stars in the sky were magnificent last night and the winds are definitely getting warmer, which is nice.We had an easy tea of spaghetti and pesto last night to give us energy for the night, and we're enjoying the fresh fruit on board, which I realise we do not have enough of. I didn't think we could carry it all, but our hammocks actually hold a lot and i wish I'd brought more apples and oranges as we're having to ration them out to everyone except the skipper and first mate (matt). 

Matt found a flying fish had landed on the deck during the night, if only he hadn't have thrown it back overboard, we could've had fish for breakfast! Instead we had cuppa soups and bread (very boring, but nice when you've been up all night!)

We're looking forward to our first real tea since we've been at sea tonight, spaghetti bolognaise. We tend to eat early, about 4.30pm so we have time to clean up afterwards before it gets dark.

We're envious of you and your showers - there's only so much that wetwipes can do and even the teenagers don't spend long in the heads (bathroom) when it's lurching from side to side!! 

-- Joy

1st Days At Sea

Hi all,

Position 34 deg 38 min south 175deg 31min east at Saturday 1300hrs 2nd May 09

We left Auckland in the great excitement of our trip and had to motor sail for the beginning expecting to find the start of the gale through the night that was forecast to intensify on Saturday morning. And indeed we had at one stage 3 slabs out the main, storm sail up, and very reduced head sail peaking speeds of 9.4kts. But not too sure what has happened but we have found our selves motor sailing for half of the past 24hours with lumpy seas that at one stage were 4meters. The crew have had periods of excitement but at the moment of writing are all laying around the deck having all consumed various remedies for sea sickness and have been feeding the fishes with our precious provisions. We are some 70 nautical miles north east of Brett in stunning blue seas. I am sitting at the chart table downloading a weather fax bravely typing a short first entry into our blog. At our morning schedule with Opua offshore communications, Des told us that the Tongan fleet decided to delay their departure till Sunday because of the gale warnings. Wise because this is certainly a rough bit of sea and our hope to have been �sling shotted� out into the pacific with the strong South Easters is now just 4 knots of wave wind.

We are grateful to our good friends the Pah�s that brought bacon and egg pie, quiche and apple pie. A good start to the trip and not something we would have whipped up in this weather.

Skipper

Sunday 3rd May 09 1600 hours: Position 31degrees 57 min south and 176dgrees 55min East. Wow I could eat my words � the wind picked up after writing the above and we had some wild seas with breaking waves up to 6m high and peak wind gust of 50 kts with sustained wind in excess of 40 knots for a lot of the time. We took down all the sail bar the storm jib and ran before the wind with a few waves breaking over the stern. At the time of writing the winds have now settled to a comfortable 20 to 25knots from the South East and we are heading 020 degrees true for Minerva reef. The moral has improved and everyone has started to eat food and show some good humour. Its stopped raining feels warmer, no vessel or anything sited for the past 2 days. We are now 250 nautical miles north east of North Cape (top of the north island) truly far away from anything. Still haven�t quite got my sea legs as this writing is still taking a bit of effort. Matt
is still trying to catch up on sleep, he and I had steered the Carenza through all this stuff. Even now still too much swell in a following sea for the autohelm. Tom has been fantastic this morning by taking the helm for nearly 4 hours and proving himself quite a good helmsman.

Skipper

Preparation Photos

Just some photos of the preparation of the boat - mainly stocking up on food.

The photos are off my moms phone so excuse the bad quality.