Day 37

Saturday 6th June 2009

Position:18deg 39min South, 173 deg 58min West � Neiafu in Vava�u

Had a night of heavy rain, but the temperature was cooler this morning. We went to the pharmacy to get Abby some ointment for a boil type sore she has on her arm � we were surprised to find that they have Tami Flu in stock at $100 for 10 days, we decided we wouldn�t go for that � hopefully we�ll stay in good health. We found some good wholewheat bread at a local caf� and some freshly baked cinnamon buns from the bakery. Today we went out with Abbey and her parents, Janet and Clint from Kairos, to Mariner�s Cave, they hadn�t been before, so it was good to show them where it was and to go in with them. This time Matthew was first in! The sun came out and we ate lunch enroute sailing with the gib up. We then continued to Mala Island, a beautiful resort island which, although had been abandoned, is now being renovated and will be open in a couple of months. It�s a very pretty island with two small paradise island type beaches, so, after having spoken with the new management and caught up with the ins and outs of running a resort in Tonga, we snorkeled along the reefs just off the beach. Surprisingly, much of the coral had died, but it was shallow snorkeling and the fish were beautiful, so we enjoyed it all the same. There was a fat pink starfish that reminded me of spongebob square pants! And lots of Nemo�s family and relatives down there. It was a really good day.

We came back in time to enjoy our special �appreciation evening� with one of the boats that Charles had attended to a crushed finger injury. Not only did they give us delicious drinking water from their watermaker � for which we were very grateful, but they bought a voucher for Charles and I to enjoy dinner at an exclusive restaurant, the Dancing Rooster, and for the children to go on to their boat and have hotdogs for tea, and watch movies with popcorn and refreshments. The kids were all so excited they�ve been looking forward to it for days. The restaurant was set in chef Gunter�s home garden, with large tables covered with pretty cloths and sturdy chairs, pretty lighting and woven coconut palm roofing. There wasn�t supposed to be entertainment with our supper, however, a roaming dog snuck in to have a fight with the Gunter�s dog, which took quite some effort to get him off and out of the place. We treated ourselves to a lobster salad starter, seeing as we haven�t managed to catch one yet! And Charles enjoyed an expensive t-bone steak, in the land of pigs, I had a delicious pork steak and we came home replete! The children impressed our hosts with their good behaviour and were told they were welcome anytime, something we were proud of, especially as they don�t have children themselves.

Earlier in the day, John, one of Matt�s new found friends at church came out to see the boat, as Charles was out in the dinghy, Matt swam over to the pier and they swam back to the boat. It was the first time he�d been on a yacht and his eyes were wide, we had refreshments in the cockpit and chatted, fortunately English is his favourite subject and so chatting was easy. He�s working hard at school to go to BYU Provo on a scholarship, I could imagine he�ll succeed in his goals too. He works in the local video shop from 9-9 on Saturdays, so he just came over to see us in his break, we had to let him go so he could go home and change before returning to work. As by law, everything is closed on Sundays, they don�t have the hassle of telling employees they don�t want to work on the Sabbath.

Joy

Day 36

Friday 5th June 2009

Position: 18deg 39min South, 173deg 58min West � Neiafu in Vava�u

The ferry arrived Thursday � meaning the market is full of variety today. We bought watermelon, papaya, mandarins, apples, pineapples, eggs, tomatoes, onions, and various other provisions. The younger children met up with some friends Kai and Dior (their parents have a 47ft cat and stay on the island of Nuku) and went ashore to play. And it rained � hot, humid and very sticky � The highlight of the afternoon and evening was the Friday evening Vava�u Yacht Club�s race � no, we didn�t crack it and yes, we were at the back of the fleet, but it was fun and we won a prize, lunch for two at a local caf�, and had a great evening. � The music and festive spirit at the Mermaid restaurant continued �til late, and Matt and Emma only returned after 11pm � they insisted they were quite safe as there were church members there keeping an eye out for them, which was nice, and we were anchored nearby.

Day 35

Thursday 4th June 2009

Position: 18deg 39min South, 173deg 58min West � Neiafu in Vava�u

Another overcast day, Charles is loving the cooler weather, the rest of us are looking forward to more sun. This morning we walked to Mt Talou National park, a hill overlooking the port of Neiafu. We walked past the King�s Vava�u residence and through the villages to reach the hill. The climb up the hill was aided with ropes tied to trees and the view from three different lookouts over the islands and reefs was well worth the effort. On the way back, we discovered a small dairy � they seem to be on every street corner, that sold the coldest cooldrinks we�ve had so far � shame the weather wasn�t warmer so we could really wallow in it, and a real bakery that supplies bread to the town. Their cinnamon rolls, baguettes and cheese bread was the best we�d tasted. Most of us are still suffering from Tongan quickstep, we don�t quite know what�s causing it and most of the time it�s manageable, but we only have on heads on board so we have to be quick about it! We treated a sore on Abby�s arm today which she thinks was caused from a bite or sting she received on the beach a few days ago, it�s gone septic, so we started her on antibiotics and drained it. Emma and Abbey from Kairos, made a delicious chocolate cake, while the rest of us walked south east of Neiafu exploring. Quite a few hotels and resorts have been reduced to rubble by fire, and it must have drastic impacts on people�s livelihoods, especially as there�s no insurance here. Other places stand unfinished and we wonder whether this is from lack of money or materials. Charles and I treated ourselves to supper at the Mermaid restaurant and enjoyed the company of other yachties, while the kids enjoyed NZ fish fingers from the local bulk foods shop where Bishop�s wife, Loisi, works.

Day 34

Wednesday 3rd June 2009

Position: 18deg 39min South, 173deg 58min West � Neiafu in Vava�u

Dad�s bug seems to be spreading round the family � so kind of him to share. Good burley being produced, even though it�s tough going with 7 people sharing one heads on board, ha ha! Rebekah and Arwen were up at the crack of dawn playing, fortunately Abby joined in and kept them occupied. After breakfast we had sultana scones and took some over to share with Tusitala. The weather is still overcast and chilly, with the temperature dropping to 25 degrees. We got the sweatshirts out today � how are we ever going to cope when we come back to NZ?! Charles had to dive down to unhook our anchor chain from around a coral bombie, before we set off to our next daystop. Good job we hadn�t had to urgently move during the night or we�d have been stuck. We motored over to anchorage 17, Lape Island, and went ashore for a walk to the village. Lape village consists of four families, they live very traditionally and yet have their own Free Wesleyan church with minister on the island, and their own school. The school was a fairly new building, consisting of one room, the teacher�s desk and two chairs, a long school desk and long bench at which the six primary school children sit for their lessons. There was a separate toilet block and hand basin, and a small staff quarters adjacent to the school for the teacher. The view was out over the bay. The lessons are in English and it was interesting to see English posters everywhere and questions about the solar system on the chalkboard. It looked lovely. We arrived at lunchtime, so the children had gone home and we saw them with their mother in the cookhouse, eating their lunch that had been prepared over the open fire stoves. There was no electricity and water was from rainwater tanks from the roofs of the houses. The living was very simple and yet I was impressed at how beautifully the school children were turned out, with their hair neatly braided and in clean clothes � how they manage to wear white tops I just don�t know. We were impressed by the islanders industrious farming, aside from coconuts, they had crops of taro, cassava and karva, and were also growing bananas, mangos & pineapples (not in season), pigs and goats, and even had scarecrows in their domestic vegetable garden to keep out unwanted predators. Older children board at school in Neiafu,. going home on Friday afternoon and returning after church on Sunday. The people were very friendly and welcomed us into their village, which when walking through, is like someone walking up to your back door � so it�s quite intrusive. As the cooking on the island is done over an open flame, the kitchens are not part of the house, there is a separate cookhouse for each house to cook and eat in, and the house is for sleeping in. We then put up the gib and sailed through to Neiafu. Matt and Emma were hoping to attend the local youth activity, but unfortunately both were laid low, so didn�t manage to go, much to their disappointment. We had comfort food of mince, veg and mashed potato for tea and Matthew made good use of the local free internet before they discovered us and cut the access. Our friends who had lent the kids a TV show on DVD�s gave us an invitation for the children to go over to their boat to watch the second series of the show and have popcorn and beverages on a night of their choice � so they�re very excited. They also very kindly gave Charles and I a voucher for dinner at one of the local exclusive restaurants after Charles helped treat her injured finger, something that they really didn�t need to do. We�ve enjoyed their company and enjoy helping them out, plus they�ve given us lots of delicious desalinated water!

S�all from the cook and bottlewasher today, love to all, & thanks to John and Saskia for our very useful timer! It has so many useful functions and it�s used every day. xoxo

Day 33

Tuesday 2nd June 2009 19:26

Position: 18deg 43min South, 174 deg 05min West � Anchorage 16, Vaka�eitu in Vava�u

We were woken up in the early morning to gusty winds, pouring rain and lightning. So me and dad didn�t get much sleep ( had to check we were saftely anchored every couple of hours ). Had pancakes for breakfast � made ones with oats in them, super filling. It continued to be overcast with rain for most of the morning, so we decided to stay put in this protected anchorage. It was the first time it actually felt cool, the temperature dropped to 26 degrees, Dad�s happy, the rest of us are all feeling chilly! Mum then made everyone do homework for a few hours - that went down really well, and washed our Sunday clothes as our white shirts were no longer white after our busy, long hot
Sunday! After that Mum and Dad went for a walk with Rebekah and found the remains of a resort on Vaka�eitu island, less than five years ago it was a fully functioning restaurant with Austrian food, fresh apple strudel etc and fales, quite sad really, not sure whether they couldn�t make it viable or whether it was wrecked in a cyclone. Me, Em, Tom and Abby stayed behind and tidied the boat then watched CSI: Miami (one of the tv series� given to us by Rick and Robin on Endangered Species ). For dinner we had burritos with more pancakes for dessert. Rebekah�s new friend Arwen, a 6 year old from Tusitala (stowaway Sarah�s cousin), came over to play and is sleeping over. Early night for everyone tonight.

Matt (with additions by Mum)

Day 32

Monday 1st June 2009 21:00

Position: 18deg 43min South, 174 deg 05min West � Anchorage 16, Vaka�eitu in Vava�u

This morning Mum and me (Matt) went to the market to buy some fruit and vegetables. We bought paw paw and cucumbers and bananas and lettuce and tomatoes. Unfortunately they had no watermelon. On the way back we spotted Mike the skipper of Tusitala and his new crew he had picked up from the airport to replace Sarah the stowaway. Shortly after we paid for the mooring buoy and left Neiafu. On the way out we saw Bill and Hazel on board Liberation and she kindly gave us chocolates. We then went to several anchorages (the wind picked up and it started raining) but kept moving cause dad wasn�t happy and the beaches weren�t that nice. Ended up in Vaka�eitu with Tusitala and a few other boats we know. Went to the beach and played with the crabs we kept digging up. Made contact with Kairos and hopefully will meet up with them on Wednesday. It was a bit chillier today. The temperature dropped to a low of 27 hahahaha. Not looking forward to coming home to winter.

Matt

day 31

Sunday 31st May 2009 21:00

Position: 18deg 39min South, 173deg 58min West � Neiafu in Vava�u

What a good day � We got up early and dressed in our Sunday best (as best as we can do when on a boat i.e boys in white shirts & ties with shorts, skirts & tops for girls, and jandals). We walked a good few kms to the LDS Saineha Chapel just passed the LDS Saineha school. (we subsequently found that we could have attended one that was much closer). The chapel was small and less than half full, but their singing was amazing. One of the women, Denise, who was sitting behind us, kindly translated the talks for us. The final speaker, Bro Hiliau Kaufusi, kept giving his scriptural quotes in both English and Tongan, which was fantastic as we were able to keep up with the gist of the talk. He turned out to be the seminary teacher and the Adult Sunday School teacher. The children went off to their primary classes (with Mum) and the teenagers to their youth classes. They were all made to feel very welcome, and made new friends. After church Hiliau said that he was off to attend a �feast to celebrate the return of his good friend�s missionary son�, and he said that we were to attend with him. So off we went � firstly to his home and then in his van Tongan style i.e. all the kids (his and ours) in the back. Back door open and side door open (effective air-conditioning). We traversed the main island to the other side (near the West coast) to a village where the road ends: Tuanuku. Hiliau and I sat up front and he told us about his pigs, his karva crops, his money lending business, and local politics etc. He pointed out various plants and crops on the way

We were then shown inside a humble home: where the front room was furnished with a long tables and benches. We were introduced to the family and the returned missionary, Elder Moala. He was a good looking Tongan man with bright blue eyes and a lovely American accent. He had spent his mission in California and, having been born in America, was intending to return and go to university and study dentistry. We had a great time having him recount some of his experiences � especially the opportunity he had of reactivating his sister and baptizing her non-member husband, and attending the temple with both of them. The spread on the table was something to behold: Sucking pig, chicken, fish, various shell fish, yams, taro, kumara, potato salad, crab and mussel surimi, coleslaw, watermelon and much more � what a presentation and knowing how much food costs in this part of the world I can�t begin to imagine how much this cost. We felt like the consummate gatecrashers, and felt awful that we didn�t have anything to contribute, but we were made to feel very welcome and given seats of honour at the table. After we had eaten, our host, Elder Moala�s father, said we should accompany them to their ward ward conference at the Longomapu Chapel. This time we attended the last part of Sunday School and then afternoon Sacrament. It was all in Tongan but Hiliau sat next to me and translated. The chapel was full and again, the singing was incredible. The stake president acknowledged the Palangi�s in his talk. Afterwards we were invited to attend the Bishop�s house where yet another Tongan Feast was laid on. This house was more humble than the first and the beautiful feast that was prepared was much bigger � 3 little pigs this time plus all the above, we sat on mats on the floor. Again we were guests of honour, and our presence welcomed. The family did not participate, but waited behind in the other room in the house. There were other dignitaries there including Bro Spencer from the stake presidency, and others I gathered, were village elders. Speeches were made by most of the men, along with the Bishop�s wife and another lady. I made one too acknowledging our gracious host and the connection we feel as being part of a church family. We felt humbled by Bishop�s comments when he said he was sorry if there wasn�t enough food for us, or if we would still be hungry, meanwhile we�d never seen so much food on a table. Hiliau explained that we had to go now as it was getting late and the family needed to eat. That was the other thing that felt strange, that we would go in, sit down and eat, and then get up and leave without clearing the table, helping wash up or anything. However, the family would not eat till we had gone, so our leaving made room for the rest of the family at the table. There was still a huge amount of food left, we had hardly made a dent in the meal. I understood that the leftovers would be shared amongst family, friends, and neighbors alike. We were offered to take what ever we wanted (which we politely declined). This is a part of the culture that we don�t fully understand. The meal would have cost more than a few weeks wages. The home was lovingly cared for, but humble, and I�m sure the money could have been better spent. Our host was delighted with our presence and it appeared to be a great honor for him and he thanked us profusely for attending and making it special for them. (not that we did not have a fantastic time � because we did). This is definitely a very cultural thing. The real guests of honour were only about 5 and the meal would have sufficed for over 50. So there was no need to lavishly supply the honoured guests, except for special cultural reasons which I don�t fully understand. We were very humbled by the sacrifices these lovely people had made, and all the children commented on it when we got home. We so wished we could do something for each of them. They�ve certainly taught us how to share more.

On the way home we stopped to feed the pigs on one of Hiliau�s little plots. They appear to forage during the day and are fed with two coconuts each twice a day � It was explained to me that it was one of the easiest ways of farming that one could engage in. We didn�t offer to slice the tops off the coconuts with the machetes as we couldn�t wield the machete as efficiently without losing our fingers! Tom enjoyed throwing the halved coconuts to the pigs though.

We finally arrived home after dark, tired, having made new friends, good Sabbath lessons and having experienced a special part of Tongan culture we would not normally have been privvy to.

Skipper